Should fashion schools focus on creativity or business?

London - The old debate of teaching bodies and whether students should be prepared better for the 'real' world has never been as relevant to fashion students as it is today.

With saturated markets, overflowing fashion week calendars and store shelves piled to the hilt with fashion brands, it would be fair to say the world is no longer waiting for another designer.

Once in a while a genius appears out of left field

But then every once in a while a genius unexpectedly comes out of left field and wows the industry with his or her vision; one that introduces new concepts, new ways of wearing clothes, perhaps new constructions, fabrications or juxtapositions. But always the image is novel and fresh.

Designers like Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, John Galliano and Phoebe Philo are but a few. They came out of college and quickly were poached by the world's leading fashion corporations, to head either their own house, or creatively direct an established brand. But they weren't taught business, or 'real world' fashion, how it is today. Nor were they hired for their operational abilities. They relied on instinct and their talents, finding support from peers and industry to get where they are today.

Should tutorial time be equal between design and business?

The unequivocal idea that tutorial time should be divided equally between learning the business side of fashion and honing the skills of a designer, seems rather bullying. Not every brand, company or creative genius is interested in becoming the next Zara, H&M or M&S. These are business brands, who are led by profits, shareholders and marketing strategies. They are not bringing the world clothes or fashion that originated out of the depth of a designer's mind, who's only wish is to create beautiful pieces and make the world a more pleasant place.

Perhaps that's what internships are for; to bring students to the marketplace, to showrooms, to fashion weeks, to ateliers, and to studio's where both designs are being made alongside sales transactions, press, marketing, finance and operational aspects of the business.

Interestingly, this week Belgian designer Walter van Beirendonck voiced his opinion on fashion education. In an article written for Business of Fashion, the designer, who is now head of the fashion department at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp, says that fashion schools “should focus on creative teaching” and that “students can learn the business side later.”

Emphasis should be on finding an identity

“In fashion, creativity is a really important thing that you can learn and improve in school,” he says, using the Royal Academy as an example. “Students’ own identity and signature is the most important thing to us.” He goes on to cite the success of the school’s alumni as proof of this method of teaching.

“I’m sure that in all the fashion houses, most people come from creative schools,” he continues. “That’s where most of our students end up – at the house of Balenciaga, the house of Dior. But they get there mainly because of their creativity; not for their business acumen.”

Van Beirendonck is adament what the fashion industry needs is new blood and fresh ideas: “We must do everything we can to prioritise creativity in fashion education,” he concludes. “It is the thing that keeps the industry going.”

Some of us are in wholehearted agreement.

Image:Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty