When fashion meets protein fibres: “Biotechnology can be a powerful force for good”

Spiber a is bio-venture from Japan that has been harnessing the power of fermentation to produce fibres. How does one have to picture this? It started with bioinformatics researchers Kazuhide Sekiyama and Junichi Sugahara investigating methods for producing spider web fibres through fermentation in 2004. Three years later, they used their research to help resolve environmental problems faced by the textile industry, developing a protein specifically designed for premium textile applications.

Ten years ago came the breakthrough - Spiber created biobased and biodegradable Brewed Protein fibres by incorporating proprietary DNA into microorganisms to produce a specific protein, relying on sugar from sugarcane as the primary ingredient in protein production. Brewed Protein fibres are currently the only protein fibres, as defined by the ISO standard, made through a precision fermentation process, that are available on an industrial scale.

Available are staple fibres, tops/sliver and spun yarn, all with a silk-like sheen and delicacy and anti-odour and antibacterial properties (for certain fabric constructions). At the end of their life, Brewed Protein fibres can be broken down into nutrients and re-used as feedstock for the production of new Brewed Protein materials, which has been demonstrated at lab scale. 

Another breakthrough came in 2019 when Spiber launched the first-to-market product with Brewed Protein fibers – the Moon Parka – together with Japanese sportswear brand Goldwin. More collaborations followed, for example with outdoor clothing company The North Face, Californian fashion and design retailer Ron Herman, luxury outdoor clothing company Woolrich, Italian fashion company Pangaia and Japanese luxury fashion brand Sacai. 

It was in the same year that Brewed Protein fibres got their first exposure to haute couture when Japanese fashion designer Yuima Nakazato discovered them for his creations, using a unique textile-modeling technique called biosmocking. Fast-forward to July 2025 when Dutch haute couture designer Iris van Herpen unveiled a bridal look made with Brewed Protein fibres at Paris Fashion Week AW25. FashionUnited spoke with Ayana Nakajima, Spiber’s regional marketing manager, who oversaw the collaboration with Iris van Herpen, about challenges, learnings and the company’s unique journey. 

It must have been exciting to enter the world of haute couture with your material innovation. Could you tell us a little bit more about the collaboration with Iris van Herpen? How did it come about and how did it progress?

The collaboration with Iris van Herpen was a natural fit. Iris is an exceptional couturier who, like us, draws deep inspiration from nature and is guided by a strong belief in the coexistence of fashion and sustainability through art. We had already recognized each other for several years, but a mutual connection finally brought us together to work after some time. The collaboration was built on a shared belief that creativity, technology and sustainability are not separate pursuits, they are deeply interconnected elements of a unified vision. We deeply value collaborations with visionary designers and artists like Iris, as they play a vital role in bringing out the full creative potential of Spiber’s Brewed Protein fibres and inspiring new possibilities for the future of sustainable fashion.

And this was not your first brush with haute couture, it actually happened much earlier.

Yes, we have actually been collaborating with Japanese couturier Yuima Nakazato since 2019, so the world of couture is not entirely new to us. From the early days of our material development, Yuima Nakazato saw potential where others might have seen constraints. He focused on fibres with a high shrinkage rate and turned what we once viewed as flaws into creative opportunities. This led to the development of Biosmocking, a technique that transformed these fibers into unique, one-of-a-kind couture pieces. It is a textile-modeling technique for creating three-dimensional textures, bringing new depth to garments by precisely controlling the supercontraction or shape transformation properties of Brewed Protein materials, specially designed for Yuima Nakazato, through digital fabrication.

His vision extends beyond biosmocking. He continually pushes the boundaries of what is possible, taking on the challenges of using new materials and working with us to communicate and spread these innovations to a wide audience. His work in haute couture, a realm where creativity and authority reign supreme, consistently reveals new possibilities and inspires us to rethink our own limitations.

What were some of the challenges in making sure the material performed in the haute couture field?

In this particular collaboration with Iris van Herpen, the focus was not primarily on material performance. Instead, the goal was to explore how Brewed Protein materials could support the creation of forms that are both structurally refined and fluid in motion, balancing technical precision with a poetic, almost ethereal aesthetic.

The resulting gown seamlessly blends structure and fluidity, merging technical precision with artistic expression. It represents not just a singular runway moment, but a vision of what is possible at the intersection of material innovation and design.

We believe in the expressive power of materials, their ability to tell stories, evoke emotion, and transform how we relate to the natural world. This first collaboration with Iris van Herpen beautifully brought our shared values to life in a truly remarkable way.

What has been the feedback from the brands and manufacturers who have incorporated Brewed Protein fibres in their ready-to-wear collections?

The feedback we have received so far has been very encouraging. Brewed Protein materials whether in staple fibre, yarn or fabric form are often praised for their soft touch and the comfort they bring to apparel applications. One of the strengths of this material is its versatility: depending on the fibre length, spinning method and fabric construction, Brewed Protein fibres can create a wide range of aesthetic and tactile expressions.

For example, when used in worsted spinning processes, the fibres can produce a polished, lustrous finish with a smooth, elegant hand feel. That said, the final texture and feel of the fabric can vary significantly based on how it is processed, so the material offers a new canvas for creativity for designers and manufacturers.

Many partners have highlighted its softness as a key benefit, and we are also actively working with brands to explore functional properties when Brewed Protein fibre is blended with other fibres. It is an ongoing journey of discovery, and we are excited to continue evolving the material together with our partners.

What has been your greatest learning since developing Brewed Protein fibres?

We have learned that developing new materials requires significant time and capital, particularly when transitioning from lab-scale prototypes to reliable, cost-efficient mass production. This scale-up demands not only technical innovation but also a fundamental rethinking of operations and supply chains. At Spiber, we have embraced this challenge by managing the entire process of producing our protein polymers in-house, continuously iterating and refining along the way.

Looking ahead, we are committed to pioneering sustainable production methods such as utilising non-edible feedstock to push the boundaries of material innovation and shape a more responsible future for manufacturing.

After prior collaborations, like the one in the fashion realm with Iris van Herpen, in the textile field with Manifattura Sesia and Achille Pinto as well as with Japanese manufacturers, what future collaborations are planned?

So far, over 80 companies including textile manufacturers and spinning mills have worked with our Brewed Protein fibre, and 45 brands have launched more than 190 products using it.

Looking ahead, we are continuing to grow our global collaborations across the US, Europe, China, India, Japan, and beyond — not only with leading brands but also with mills and manufacturers who are developing product collections to accelerate the wide adoption of Brewed Protein fibre. 

At what upcoming tradeshows can we find Spiber?

We are excited to be participating in the following upcoming tradeshow and event in Europe, and we look forward to connecting with fellow innovators and industry leaders: Première Vision in Paris from 16th to 18th September and Biofabricate in London on 16th and 17th September 2025.  

What does the future hold for Spiber?

As a pioneer in man-made protein fibre, which is ISO 2076 certified, our Brewed Protein fibre is the only man-made protein fibre to be successfully industrialised, positioning the company as a global leader in biomaterials for fashion and beyond. Our work is driven by a belief that biotechnology can be a powerful force for good, helping to reshape global industries, reduce environmental impacts and create a more sustainable and inclusive future.

We are constantly exploring new and diverse applications for our materials, aiming to support a circular economy and contribute to systems that are not only sustainable but regenerative. As protein-based materials become increasingly vital to addressing challenges in areas like fashion, food and beyond, the need for scalable, ethical and efficient production methods will grow significantly. We hope to continue collaborating with forward-thinking partners who share our mission of transforming how materials are made and used, for the benefit of both people and the planet.

The interview was conducted in written format.